The New England winter has turned to spring and with it I am back to work on the project! During the winter I had a temporary door I had found on the side of the road and it was smaller than the plans called for so I had built in the door frame to fit. Since then I attempted to use a door I got a deal on off craigslist, but this soon turned into a bit of a headache as a frame needed to be build around it and the size was still smaller than my rough opening. There were a variety of factors such as the weather stripping, threshold, and used door hinges that were making the result unsatisfactory. This past week I decided to take the plunge and purchase a door at Home Depot that had the frame and threshold all as one piece and was the correct size for my rough opening. It turned out to be a great solution as the door was not very expensive and saved me the time of trying to finagle together bits and pieces to get a nicely sealed door.
Here is a link to the door I ended up purchasing if you’re curious: Home Depot Fiberglass Door. Once lifting the door into place I checked for any signs of light coming through on the inside. I applied cocking underneath the threshold as well as the floor itself. It was also important to apply door flashing tape within the rough opening of the subfloor.
Heroically I managed to lift the door into place on my lonesome and tack in 4 screws through the door frame trim into the sheathing. The door also leaves a screw hole open in each hinge so you can fasten through each into your framing. Making sure that the door is square and adding shims where necessary, I then applied “Great Stuff: Windows and Doors” to seal up any gaps along the inside of the frame. The reason they make this product specific for windows and doors is that it doesn’t expand as much as the “Gaps and Cracks“. I’m happy with the result so far though I likely will paint the door a bolder color.
Soon after finishing the door I realized how sketchy the step ladder I was using is. There have been many times I’ve nearly fallen and to step down it was really slowing down my work flow. To solve the problem I threw together some custom steps that are super sturdy and wide as to make the transition up and down much more seamless.
Another aspect I have completed is the loft flooring. To do this I used 10 inch pine from a local lumber yard, Yankee Pine, and used a Dremel to create shiplap channels. I did this to make the boards fit nicely together and mainly to make the loft stronger since each board now overlaps the next. Before nailing down the loft it was important to insulate the back section where the loft over-hangs to the outside. I used spray-foam insulation as well as the pick stuff. I also needed to add some 2×4 studs inside this part of the framing to give me something to tack the ends of the floor boards into. Since the nails on the boards will stay exposed I decided to used some nice looking Steel Cut Floor nails that I find attractive though pre-drilling each hole was required or else the wood would split. I got these at my local lumber yard as well. If you use these nails also note the long way of the head of the nail should go with the grove of the wood to prevent splitting. Eventually I would like to polyurethane the floor to help protect it and make it easier to clean.
I met with an electrician that gave me some great ideas such as putting the electrical panel and other items all the way to the back of the loft. Since it’s a deep 11′ 2″ it will be plenty of space to have a bed and storage that can be out of the way. He mentioned it would also be convenient if I ever did solar panels on the roof it would be a nice and close.
Here are some photos of the process. The next project I’m working on is installing the electric.