Since my last post I have made progress on a variety of interior projects. First I planned out where I wanted light switches and outlets and nailed in electrical boxes appropriate for each. Next, I consulted a friend who is an electrician who helped guide me and make some basic decisions such as where the breaker box would go. I’ve accepted his advise that my breaker box will be in the back left corner of the loft where it is most out of the way to the living space as I will not need to access it often.

Then I was fortunate to have two friends that have experience wiring come and help wire the outlets. I still have to wire my 3-way switches and light switches, but all outlets are now wired, and I think I have a good enough understanding in how to do it.

Here are some shots of us wiring.

Tiny House Electrical

Tiny House Electrical

Next I did more research about possible insulation solutions and came across Roxul Rockwool. There seems to be some great benefits you can see from the list on their website:

  • Easily cut
  • Non-combustible
  • Excellent sound absorbency
  • Does not rot
  • Does not promote growth of fungi or mildew
  • Low moisture sorption
  • Chemically inert; non-corrosive
  • Water resistant
  • CFC – and – HCFC free, product and process
  • Made from natural & recycled materials


During this process I discovered that I also needed a moisture barrier that would be applied in between the insulation and interior siding. I was fortunate that my Father had just needed to have some work done on his roof, unfortunate for him, but he had a full roll of un-used synthetic moisture barrier that I was able to snag.

Moisture Barrier

Here you can see the moisture barrier added in between the insulation and plywood. I decided to overlap the moisture barrier over and out the windows and then added Protecto Wrap over that.

Once this was all in place I was able to start on my staircase to the loft. The first aspect was acting on my idea to cut into the loft one beam in so the staircase wouldn’t take up as much space and since it would be steep, it wouldn’t interfere with my kitchen counter space desired. I did this by using my friend’s Sawzall and my circular saw.

Loft Stairs

In making this cut-out I put a 4×4 in place as I made the cut and then eventually made the beam level and screwed some long screws through the loft floor into the beam.

I thought it would be a nice design element to continue with the 1×10″ pine from the loft as well as use the flooring nails that are a nice touch in the loft. I designed the staircase as I went and I am happy with the direction so far.

One idea is to close the back of each step and possibly add risers 1/3 of the way in from the wall and then the left side of the staircase can be used for a bookshelf.

Each riser is 7″ tall, 8.5″ deep. Each tread is a piece of 1×10″ that is also used for the loft.

Staircase is 2 feet wide.

Adding risers to segregate shelving is also an idea to add integrity to the steps.

Each step has two 3 1/8 inch screws thru the tread into the tops of the side risers, and then 2 flooring nails through the side of the outside string. Each riser on the wall side has 4 flooring nails.

There will be some storage space under the stairs though the kitchen counter will start at the beam. Maybe a tiny cat could have a napping bed there or a litter box. Or my hiking backpack or skateboard. Possibilities are endless, but need to stay tiny.

Tiny House Stairs

Tiny Studio Stairs

Plumbing Rail


Update: Recently I decided to strengthen the stairs by adding backs to every other step. This has made the stairs much more rigid as before they were slightly bending when used. I also like the floating effect this gives as the space is still open to the kitchen.

Tiny house stairs

Floating stairs